I spent Holy Week and Easter this year in Granada to see some of the famous processions, and then headed to Galicia in northern Spain to do the last part of El Camino de Santiago -- a Catholic pilgrimage that leads to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
While in Granada for Wednesday night, I was able to see four processions, each representing and demonstrating a different stage of the Passion of Christ, him carrying the cross and suffering. In all of Southern Spain, the processions consist of people dressed in robes with pointed hoods, looking like dunce caps, signifying a sinner, floats of Jesus and the Virgin Mary . These robed people, called "penitentes" process through the streets with candles and incense, leading the way for floats called "tronos" which are carried by other members of the specific church who is putting on the procession. The floats can weigh thousands of pounds, and are usually carried (depending on the size) by thirty or forty men. The floats are all ornate, made with silver and gold, and expressing the different stages of the passion of christ. The float of Jesus is followed usually by a marching band with cornets, trumpets, trombones, tubas, and a drum line. The band is then followed by an even more ornate float carrying the Virgin Mary. It is so tall sometimes and dressed with so many flowers and candles that you can just make out the face and figure being presented. The processions that I saw were definitely a spectacle and I was glad to have been then to experience the hype and excitement in Granada in preparation for Easter.
Right after watching those processions, I headed off with Jack and Wyatt to do El Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. We started in a town called Ourense in Galicia, bought some groceries for the road, and tried to find our "credentials" for the pilgrimage. Every pilgrim, to keep track of where he or she has been, needs credentials -- or a passbook -- to collect the stamps from each stop along the way in order to prove that the camino has been completed. Since we started at an uncommon starting point, we were not able to get the credentials (even though we spent a couple hours walking around the city to the churches and cathedrals...). However, we did keep all of the stamps we got on a paper and I stuck mine in my notebook. Due to this we did not get "recognized" by the Catholic church as pilgrims, but we were still able to gather the stamps for sentimental value and as a souvenir.
I'll summarize the four days that we walked briefly:
So, the first night we ended up starting at 6:30 pm and walking for six hours until 12:30 am (walking a good 55,000 steps that day), where we arrived at our first "Alburgue" or a pilgrim hostel where pilgrims can stay for free or sometimes a six euro fee. The next day we were able to find walking sticks, and walked a whopping 12 hours through hills, mud, and some rivers, and did 37 km (23 miles). We had bought some supplies to make sandwiches for lunch and made sure we had plenty of water to drink. It was also helpful that there were a lot of water fountains along the way too. We arrived just after sunset at the alburgue and had a good dinner at a restaurant in the town. I was lucky enough to be able to grab the last bed, but Wyatt and Jack had to sleep on some matts that were given to them. The next day we woke up at 6:30 am to get a head start on one of our hardest days. It ended up raining for most of the day. It was definitely a struggle to push ourselves once all of our clothes and backpacks were soaked. By midday we felt like we could not go on, but we pushed ourselves to walk the remaining 15 km (9 miles) to make it a total of 33 km (20.5 miles) for the day. By that time our feet were ripped up with blisters from walking 97 km in three days (60 miles), and we just wanted to finish the next 12 km (7.5 miles) to Santiago. We arrived at Santiago at 1 in the afternoon, headed to Easter mass, grabbed some lunch, and then headed to our hotel to get some well-needed rest and an obligatory shower.
In general, I am glad that I did the walk. It was definitely hard at points, a physical and mental strain that forced me to push myself forward when I thought that I would not make it. It was a time for bonding between friends as it was a time for reflection and thinking. I would not have been able to have done it without Wyatt and Jack as we all picked each other up, pushed each other forward, and joked when there was a little too much tension. Anyway, as this blog's focal point is pictures, I will get to them soon! All I would like to say is that I am lucky to have good friends who I can walk for 67 miles with and still be able to joke and revel in our struggle after.
What a Spring vacation! Anyway, here are some pictures from Granada and El Camino de Santiago:
Semana Santa Processions in Granada:
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The Penitentes leading the procession |
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Some of the kids of the parish handing out candy and toys |
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Kids giving some water and helping out those who are carrying the float underneath |
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The marching band playing |
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The float with the Virgin Mary -- covered with candles and flowers it is sometimes hard to even see the figure being presented |
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A float "trono" depicting Jesus carrying the cross |
Pictures from El Camino de Santiago:
Different types of markers to send us in the right direction:
some pointing out albergues, others pointing direction with the symbol of the path, a shell.
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Ourense, the starting point of our pilgrimage |
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Sunset from the path |
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Views from the countryside |
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A rainbow decided to motivate us to push out the last 5km uphill leg of our day on Saturday |
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Beautiful Easter Morning lookout |
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The inside of one of the Albergues we stayed in |
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A couple flower photos from the houses we passed by |
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Our final descent into Santiago de Compostela: if you look closely you can see the Cathedral 2 km straight ahead.
It was a beacon for our hope of being able to sit down, go to mass, and then eat a good easter meal. |
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A procession with a float depicting Jesus risen from the dead. The procession was much more simple and reverent in comparison to those in Andalusia. |
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View of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela |
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A couple more views of the Cathedral |
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A statue outside of one of the centers for Pilgrims |
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Mass inside the Cathedral: not a bad place to celebrate Easter!
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Hope you guys enjoyed the post!
I'll post another tomorrow with some pictures and updates of what happened so far this week!